KERSTIN VON KAPRI
Content Manager
Demystifying Oily Skin: How to Build an Effective Oily Skincare Routine
Understanding Oily Skin
Oily skin is a very common skin type characterized by an overproduction of sebum, the skin's natural oil. In dermatology, this is sometimes referred to as seborrhea,1 though for most people, it simply means their skin tends to produce more oil than average, which can leave the complexion feeling heavier than normal.
Because of this excess sebum, oily skin is more prone to accumulating impurities, which can lead to a greater likelihood of blemishes. The oiliness is often most noticeable in the T-zone of your face — the forehead, nose, and chin — where there is a higher concentration of sebaceous glands.
It's also worth noting that oily skin can be sensitive at the same time. Many people experience both concerns in combination, which is referred to as oily-sensitive (OS) skin. This means excess oil production paired with a tendency toward irritation or reactions to certain triggers.
What Causes Oily Skin?
So, where does oily skin come from? Oily skin is the result of overactive sebaceous glands, which can happen anywhere on your body, from your face and chest to your scalp and so on.
There are plenty of factors relating to why oily skin happens. Let's break down the most common ones.
Genetics
If your parents have oily skin, there's a strong chance you can also have overactive sebaceous glands.2 Genetics often determine the size and level of activity of sebaceous glands and so more active glands often equate to more oily skin.
Hormones
Hormones, especially those relating to growth, have been shown to influence sebaceous gland functions.3 High levels of androgens, groups of hormones that are often considered 'male hormones' but are present in all genders, can also stimulate sebaceous glands, leading to oily skin or breakouts. Hormone fluctuations during puberty, menstrual cycles, or stress can intensify oil production. This can be what causes oily skin in females at certain life stages.
Age
Oily skin often tends to affect those under the age of 50, most likely due to the impact of different hormones on the sebaceous glands. However, as we age, skin that was once oily can start to dry out. So, does oily skin ever go away? The answer is mixed.
Research shows that oil production tends to impact men and women differently.4 In men, sebum levels often remain relatively unchanged from young adulthood until old age, however in women, oil levels tend to decrease gradually after menopause. This, combined with lower collagen production as we age, is often what causes oily skin in females to diminish over time.
Overexfoliating or Overcleansing
People with oily skin tend to think more exfoliating and cleansing can help reduce oil levels in their skin. Unfortunately, this can have the opposite reaction. When you overwash your skin, it can strip too much natural oil from your skin, which can send the sebaceous glands into overdrive, triggering them to produce more oil than before.
Gentle cleansing twice daily is sufficient to maintain a balanced, fresh complexion.
Likewise, people with oily skin also tend to skip over using moisturizer, worried they're contributing more to the greasy feeling on their skin. However, your skin always needs to be moisturized, especially if you're using products that can dry out the skin.
Look for lightweight moisturizers that are formulated not to clog pores, keeping your skin radiant and healthy without the shine.
Myth-Busting: Is Oily Skin Healthy?
Absolutely, oily skin can be perfectly healthy. Sebum plays an essential role in keeping your complexion balanced, lubricated, and comfortable. It forms a natural barrier that helps maintain your skin's moisture and protects its appearance from everyday environmental stressors.⁵
And here's the good news: oily skin's natural richness can actually work in your favor over time. It helps soften the appearance of fine lines and maintain a youthful-looking complexion. A beautiful reminder that balance and nourishment always take precedence over stripping or overcorrecting.
That said, excess oil, if left unmanaged, may contribute to concerns like clogged pores, breakouts, and unwanted shine. The key is not to fight your skin's nature, but to support it with the right care: gentle cleansing, lightweight hydration, and non-comedogenic products that let your skin breathe.
Is Oily Skin Dehydrated At Times?
A common and misunderstood skin concern is oily, dehydrated skin. Dehydrated skin has a feeling of tightness or sensitivity because it's lacking water, not oil. So, even if your skin looks and feels shiny or greasy, it can still be dehydrated, due to potential water loss.
This can often be the result of people wanting to 'dry out' their oily complexion by overwashing or overexfoliating, which often leads to your skin overproducing oils to make up for what's been stripped away.
Common Oily Skin Concerns
There are a number of skin concerns and oily skin challenges that are the result of overactive sebaceous glands, including
- Breakouts: Blemishes and blackheads are common when oil traps impurities or dead skin cells inside the pores.
- Enlarged pores: Larger pores around the nose and cheek area can occur due to the increased sebum production.
- Shine: A persistent sheen is common in the T-zone area, which can get worse through the day.
- Increased Sensitivity: Skin can become reactive or irritated after using harsh products that strip, rather than support, oily complexions.
- Makeup Longevity: Excess oil can cause makeup to break down or separate, impacting wear over time.
How to Build an Oily Skincare Routine
Creating a routine that respects your skin's unique needs is the key to radiant, balanced skin. The good news? You don't need a complicated 10-step regimen. A few intentional, well-chosen steps can make all the difference. Here's where to start.
Gentle Cleansing
The first step in any oily skincare routine is a gentle cleanser. When considering which face wash is best for oily skin, look for sulfate-free formulas that won't disrupt your skin's natural moisture. Gel or foam cleansers like our AQUANATURE Refreshing Cleansing Mousse with balancing botanicals including aloe vera, can help clean pores without leaving your skin feeling tight.
Hydration Is Key
Regardless of skin type, your skin needs hydration. Opt for lightweight moisturizers that hydrate without clogging the pores. Hyaluronic acid is a great ingredient to look out for, because it works to draw moisture into the skin without adding any greasy feel. Our AQUANATURE Smoothing Day Cream light features a botanical form of hyaluronic acid from the Chinese tremella that gently moisturizes and soothes.
Balance With A Toner
Toners are a helpful step for oily skin as they can help restore a sense of balance and refine the look of pores. Opt for soothing formulas enriched with calming botanicals to help tone down the shine without stripping the skin.
If your oily skin also tends to feel reactive or easily irritated, a toner formulated for sensitive skin can be an excellent choice. The ZZ SENSITIVE Strengthening Facial Gel deep-moisturizes without overwhelming your complexion, using golden orchid to leave skin feeling fresh and relaxed. It prepares your skin beautifully for the care that follows, delivering lightweight hydration that oily, sensitivity-prone skin truly appreciates.
Target With Specialized Serums
Specialized serums can help address the appearance of complexions that are prone to excess oil production, as well as those with an uneven texture or enlarged pores. Our AQUANATURE Revitalizing Rehydration Serum features botanical hyaluronic acid, which delivers intense moisture alongside willowherb extract, which helps refine enlarged pores and promote a more even complexion.
Armed with insight and a carefully curated routine, oily skin becomes a source of confidence and balance. Taking care of your skin is less about control and more about understanding what your skin needs, and why.
Sources
1 Sakuma, T. H. & Maibach, H. I. (2012): „Oily skin: an overview." Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 25(5), 227–235. https://doi.org/10.1159/000338978. [Accessed: 24 July 2026].
2 Yang, Z., Yang, X., Chen, X. & Wang, Y. (2021): „Influence of family history, body mass index, selected dietary factors, personal habits, and menstrual history on oily skin in young women." Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 20(11), 3661–3665. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.14029. [Accessed: 24 July 2026].
3 Szöllősi, A. G., Oláh, A., Bíró, T. & Tóth, B. I. (2018): „Recent advances in the endocrinology of the sebaceous gland." Dermato-Endocrinology, 9(1), e1361576. https://doi.org/10.1080/19381980.2017.1361576. [Accessed: 24 July 2026].
4 Pochi, P. E., Strauss, J. S. & Downing, D. T. (1979): „Age-related changes in sebaceous gland activity." Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 73(1), 108–111. https://doi.org/10.1111/1523-1747.ep12532792. [Accessed: 24 July 2026].
5 Hoover, E., Aslam, S. & Krishnamurthy, K. (2022): „Physiology, Sebaceous Glands." In: StatPearls [Internet]. Treasure Island (FL): StatPearls Publishing. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK499819/. [Accessed: 24 July 2026].
Your Oily Skin Questions, Answered
Oily skin naturally produces more sebum, which can help maintain a moisturized, supple-looking complexion over time. Many people with oily skin notice that fine lines and wrinkles appear less prominent compared to those with drier skin types. That said, oily skin still benefits from a consistent skincare routine with hydration.
Yes, oily skin can absolutely be dehydrated. Dehydration refers to a lack of water in the skin, not oil — so your complexion can feel tight or look dull even while producing excess sebum. This often happens when the skin is over-cleansed or stripped of its natural moisture barrier.
No — skipping moisturizer can actually cause your skin to produce more oil to compensate for the lack of hydration. Instead, choose a lightweight, non-comedogenic moisturizer that hydrates without clogging pores or adding shine. Your skin will feel more balanced and comfortable throughout the day.
Gentle cleansing twice daily — morning and evening — is typically sufficient for oily skin. Over-washing can strip your skin's natural oils and trigger increased sebum production as a response. Look for sulfate-free, mild cleansers that refresh without leaving your skin feeling tight.
Botanical hyaluronic acid, green tea extract, and aloe vera are excellent ingredients for oily skin because they hydrate and soothe without adding heaviness. Look for formulas labeled non-comedogenic and oil-free to keep your complexion fresh and balanced. Lightweight gels and serums tend to work particularly well for oily skin types.
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